by Editor HJ Yang
Edited and published by Yvette Depaepe, the 14^th of March 2025 

Our journey began in Punta Arenas, Chile. Punta Arenas is a city near the tip of Chile's southernmost Patagonia region. Located on the Strait of Magellan, which connects the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, it's often used as a base for excursions into the surrounding wilderness and Antarctica. Plaza Muñoz Gamero is home to a monument to the explorer Ferdinand Magellan, and the Museo Nao Victoria houses a replica of one of his galleons.

This trip was planned in 2019 for 2020 with WildImage Photo Tour. Due to Covid it was postponed to 2022. However, less than a month before we were due to leave in 2022, we were informed that the trip had been cancelled due to the Covid restriction. In 2023, we were due to leave on the 8th of November, but a few days before we were due to leave, we were informed that we would have to delay the trip by ten days due to bad weather at Union Glacier camp, where our camp at Gould Bay had not yet been set up. So we rearranged our flights and arrived in Punta Arenas, Chile a few days early. We had been through all the briefings and the operator had checked all our equipment and clothing.  We took a tour with Mark and Inger from Wildimage Photo Tour along the coast of the area, and were ready to fly to the Union Glacier camp the next morning. However, in the afternoon Mark received a text message that the flight to Union Glacier Camp had been cancelled due to bad weather, we were all devastated and quickly arranged our flight home the following day.

Last year we finally got another chance. We left home on the afternoon of 7 November and arrived in Punta Arenas around 13:30 on 8 November.
We went straight to the office for a briefing and to check our rental clothes.
On the 9th of November we checked in at the office in the morning with our checked baggage and had dinner at La Yegua loca with the whole photo group of 8 people as well as the staff. Mark and Inger from Wild Image Tour, Darren Lo from Virginia. Sue Forbes, born in England and after serving in the Royal Air Force, moved to the US and did an MBA at Stanford, then was Division Director of Motorola and quit to become a guide for Geo ship, Bryan and Leila, photographer and doctor from Laos, lived there for 11 years and did volunteer work. All their stories are so fascinating and inspiring.

We finally left Punta Arenas airport at 10am on 10 November and arrived at Union Glacier Camp at 2.15pm on the Boeing 757-200 on the Blue Ice runway. This plane has 200 seats, but it only had 70 passengers for our flight, as it was carrying all our camping gear, such as sleeping bags, clothes and large snow boots.

'Union Glacier Camp'

Union Glacier Camp is the only private seasonal camp in Ellsworth Land, Antarctica. The camp is located in the Heritage Range, below the Ellsworth Mountains, on Union Glacier, which gives the camp its name. The camp is operated by Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions LLC (ALE), a company that provides expedition support and tours to the interior of Antarctica. The camp is located near the Union Glacier Blue-Ice Runway SCGC, a rare, naturally occurring blue-ice runway that can land wheeled jet cargo aircraft. Russian Ilyushin Il-76 and Boeing B-757-200 aircraft regularly transport equipment and personnel from Punta Arenas to the camp. From Union Glacier Camp, transport to the South Pole, Vinson Massif, Hercules Inlet, Gould Bay Camp and other locations is provided by Twin Otter and Basler BT-67 ski planes, 1941 and 1942 DC aircraft. Union Glacier Camp replaced the former Patriot Hills Base Camp.

From November to January, when the weather is least hostile, jet charters are operated from Punta Arenas, Chile to the camp. Union Glacier is the site of the annual Antarctic Ice Marathon and the start of the World Marathon Challenge (7 marathons on 7 continents in 7 days).

We were supposed to fly to Gould Bay Camp the next day, 11 November, but unfortunately the weather was not good at Gould Bay and we could not go.

In the morning we had a lecture on emperor penguins by Jean Penny Cook. We went to Elephant Head and found interesting ice bubbles in the ice sheet.

'Ice bubble'

On the 12th of November the weather was still not good and we went cycling in the morning. It was very difficult to cycle on fresh snow. In the afternoon we went to the wind scoop. It was very windy and cold.

Next day weather was still not good. We went out to blue ice runway, watching  Russian Ilyushin Il-76 airplane landing and taking off. Before B-757, Antartica Logistic and Expedition (ALE) used it shuttle between Union Glacier camp and Punta Arenas for equipments and people. Now it mostly transports equipments and stuff including all waste, brown water and cabbage since they cannot leave any waste in the Antarctica and all have to be shipped back to Punta Arenas.

11/14 Very windy and we did not go out but did a tour of the camp.

Finally, the 15^th the weather was good enough and we took off in the Basler BT-67 ski plane to Gould Bay Camp.

Gould Bay (78°0′S 45°0′W) is a bay located at the junction of the Filchner Ice Shelf and the northeast corner of Berkner Island, in the southern Weddell Sea. It was discovered by the Ronne Antarctic Research Expedition (1947-48), led by Commander Finn Ronne, U.S. Navy Reserve, who named the bay after Laurence M. Gould, geologist, geographer, and second in command of the Byrd Antarctic Expedition2- (1928-30). The camp is located on frozen sea ice, just off the Ronne Ice Shelf, some 420 miles (676 km) from ALE's main base at Union Glacier, making it one of the most remote camps in the world and the only Antarctic tourist camp on sea ice!

Gould Bay Camp provides a simple but comfortable 'nest' from which to explore the nearby Emperor Penguin colony. The camp is set up specifically for the Emperor Penguin viewing season and the site has been carefully chosen to avoid disturbing the penguins in any way. Tents are pitched at least 1 mile (1.6 km) from the colony and, where possible, screened from the penguins' view by an iceberg or other natural feature. A flagged trail marks the way between the colony and our camp. At the end of the observation season, the camp is dismantled and everything, including human waste, is removed.

The camp manager is Hannah Mckeand, who has been with the company for over 20 years and set up the Gould Bay camp 11 years ago and has been the camp manager ever since.

 
Even before we landed, we saw the emperor penguins wandering around the camp and the airstrip. We made our first trip to the colony. There are 2-3000 Emperor penguins there. What a sight!

The life cycle of the Emperor Penguin (Aptenodytes forsteri) is a fascinating process adapted to the extreme conditions of Antarctica. There are six stages to its life cycle.

1. "Breading and egg laying":  Emperor penguins breed during the harsh Antarctic winter. Mating takes place in May and June when temperatures can drop to -40°C (-40°F). The female lays a single egg around May or June. After laying the egg, the female gives it to the male for incubation.
2. "Incubation": The male takes responsibility for incubating the egg. He balances the egg on his feet and covers it with a flap of skin called a brood pouch to keep it warm. Incubation takes about 65 to 75 days. During this time, the males fast and rely on fat reserves to survive. While the male is incubating, the female returns to the sea to feed.
3. "Hatching": The chick hatches in late July or early August. After hatching, the chick relies on the male's "brood pouch" to stay warm in the cold environment.
4. "Raising the chick": The female returns to the colony once the chick has hatched. She regurgitates food for the chick while the male goes out to sea to feed. Both parents take turns feeding and caring for the chick. This period of parental care continues until the chick can regulate its own body temperature and the harsh conditions begin to improve.
5. “Fledging": In December, as summer arrives in Antarctica, the chick loses its down and develops waterproof feathers. It becomes more independent and learns to hunt. At around 5 to 6 months old, the chick becomes independent and heads out to sea for the first time.
6. "Adulthood": Emperor penguins typically reach sexual maturity at around 5 years of age, although they can begin breeding as early as 4 years of age. Once mature, Emperor penguins return to the colony where they were hatched to breed.

The Emperor penguin life cycle is remarkable for its adaptation to one of the most extreme climates on Earth, demonstrating cooperation and endurance that are key to their survival in harsh conditions.t are key to their survival in harsh conditions.

The best day was the 16th. I saw the chick on her feet. We left at 9.30am and came back at 1pm. Jean gave a lecture on Adelie penguins at 6pm and visited the colony at 9pm, returning at 1am the next day. Three Adelie penguins visited the camp.

Due to the delayed departure to Gould Bay Camp and only three people in the next group, our group was given an extra five days to stay at the camp. We were really lucky. We visited the colony twice a day for the next few days. We stayed at the Gould Bay camp for nine nights. We left the camp on the 24th and returned to Punta Arena the next day.

The most memorable thing about my travels is always the people I meet. I have only mentioned two on this trip.
The first is called Harpreet Chandi, aka Polar Freet. This young girl is an Indian descendant from England. Four years ago she knew nothing about Antarctica. In the last three years, she has completed three expeditions to Antarctica, breaking four Guinness World Records for solo, unsupported, one-way polar ski journeys. When I met her, she was working at the Union Glacier camp as a guest services worker, like everyone else, very modest and down-to-earth, always with a beautiful and endearing smile. She has inspired a generation of girls, especially Indian girls everywhere. Her story is truly amazing. Now she wants to go to the North Pole alone. What an incredible girl!
The second one is Frederick Fennessy, a young man from the UK. He travelled with us all the way to the Gould Bay camp. The next day, the plane dropped him off at a coastal location and he began his solo, unsupported expedition to the South Pole. He completed the trip ahead of schedule. Neither is a professional athlete. Polar Freet is in the military and Fred is a mechanical engineer. Every person I have met on this journey has a unique and interesting personal story, and it is their stories that always inspire me and make me want to travel more, especially to the polar regions.

The most unexpected thing about the trip was that we were able to see the chick on the parents' feet, as most of the people there thought that by the time we got there the chicks should have come out of the parents' feet and most of the parents should have left the colony.

Encountering an emperor penguin colony in Antarctica can be an awe-inspiring and humbling experience. Standing in front of a colony of Emperor penguins, you feel a sense of wonder at the unique and synchronised rhythm of their lives. Their sheer numbers and social interactions can be fascinating to observe. Witnessing their ability to thrive in such harsh conditions leaves you with a deep admiration for their resilience and adaptability. Watching the adults care for their young, especially during the brutal winter months, highlights their remarkable survival strategies. The stark, icy landscape of Antarctica provides a backdrop that is both serene and majestic. The gentle sounds of penguin chatter and the vast silence of the ice can create a peaceful and contemplative atmosphere. Watching Emperor penguins in their natural habitat offers a rare glimpse into a world largely untouched by human activity. Knowing the incredible journeys these animals undertake - from breeding during the harshest part of the year, to long treks across the ice to feed and rear their young - adds to the awe of witnessing their daily existence. Seeing these adorable animals makes you think about the resilience of life and the intricate ecosystems that exist even in the most extreme environments, and encourages a deeper appreciation for biodiversity and conservation efforts. Yes, we should learn from them how to adapt to harsh conditions. Nature is always the best teacher.

All in all, standing in the middle of an Emperor Penguin colony is an unforgettable experience for me, offering a glimpse into the beauty and tenacity of life in one of the most isolated and challenging environments on Earth.

Life goes on, even in the most difficult of circumstances.
So please live your life one day at a time. When you encounter obstacles in your life, think of these emperor penguins and keep going.
Indeed: "through Endurance, we conquer".

In the harsh embrace of Antarctica's expanse, 
Where Emperor penguins gather and dance,
We find a lesson etched in ice and snow,
Of life's enduring rhythm, a quiet, steady flow. 

In the solitude of nature's starkest stage, 
These creatures teach of courage, unbounded by cage. 
Through blizzards fierce and days deprived of sun, 
They march together, true to the course begun. 

Their steadfast unity, a testament profound,
To resilience and hope in a world unbound. 
From the icy cradle, life takes its stride, 
In each heart's warmth, against the cold tide. 

Is we bear witness to their noble plight, 
May we embrace life's journey in full flight.
For in their struggle, mirrored within our soul, 
Lies the strength to endure and the courage to be whole.

About Editor Huijun (HJ) Yang, Ph.D.
Dr. HJ Yang, Scientist, Businessman and Nature Photographer, writes about his photo trips around the world and his personal view on art, science, philosophy and life experience. Some of his writings are below:

Giving a voice to nature through photography
Journey to Baffin Island
Photography strongly connected to nature
Patagonia Special Expedition
Tracking Polar Bear Cubs
Emperor Penguins on Snow Hill Island
Jaguar and Harpy Eagle in Brazil
O' Alaska
Journey to Namibia

Book / Huijun Yang: Wave Packets and Their Bifurcations in Geophysical Fluid Dynamics, Applied Mathematical Sciences, 85, Springer, New York, NY1 1991