How I made: Locked up
 
Open this photo in the gallery
Posted 6 months ago
EXIF 
To make this photo I used Canon 5D Mark2, 50mm (1.4) lens. 
The ISO was 160, Aperture - 14, Shutter speed - 8 seconds (because I use a light brush). 
And I made this photo in RAW. (The same for both of the photos I've combined here).

CONTEXT 
I really think that the most interesting aspect of  today's life  is our possibility to gain much knowledge. We ask questions and try to find the answer. The answers are like keys. We can collect many of them but only one will open the lock at the end.
THE PICTURE 
It is a composite of  2 shots. 
The first shot: The lock itself without any frames. 
The second shot: One frame  with all (!) the keys on it. 
This photo was changed in photoshop (see the information in "Processing"). 
 I used my table for still-lifes, a roll of vinyl wallpaper as a background, a tripod and a pocket flashlight with 6  light-emitting diodes as a light-brush.  I set the things on the table, focused on them with the lens (automatic focusing), switched to the manual focusing and after that turned the light in the room off. I always make photos with light-brush in total darkness.

PROCESSING  
The first photo with le lock: I make all the shots in RAW. 
I've used  DPP (Digital Photo Professional) to convert the shots into TIFF and to make it better. In DPP program I converted the shot into black and white and added some contrast.
The second photo with keys and frames: The same things in DPP. After that I opened this photo in photoshop CS3.
 I made 5 copies of this photo. In the first copy I deleted all the keys but one in the left upper corner. On the second copy -the same, but I left the key in the right corner. And so on. 
After that I had 5 photos with different keys and the same frame. I decided to do it this way (not to make 5 separate photos) because I use a light-brush and I needed all the photos to have the same light. It is the only way to do so. 
After all this steps I inserted one "frame-photo" into the other (making every next photo smaller and cutting the pixels in the middle of the frame and around the keys). Then I inserted the photo with the lock in the middle of the smallest frame. That was   all. I've combined the layers and saved the picture.

OUTCOME 
This photo reminds me of  a melody "Avalon" by Amethystium. It is one of my favourite melodies. 

HINTS
1. Try to find old keys, frames etc. Old objects look more interesting because they seem to have a story.
2.  Always use a tripod.
3. A simple flash-light with light-emitting diodes is good enough. You don't have to buy a light-brush for this kind of photos. If you with to have soft light and soft shadows, than spread on your pocket flashlight some hand cream.  It is good to refresh it every 15 minutes, don't let it dry.
4. Make at least 5 shots with your light brush. The light will always be different, so you will be able to choose the best one.
5. Never turn on the light in your room before the photo is made, because if you do so, the picture can become "flat". :-)All these hints are just my experience, not the only correct way of making photos with light-brush :-). 

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION 
At first I wanted to make this photo as a part of a triptych. But then decided to make it a  separate one.

About me: Photo is the best way to let your friends look at this world with your eyes. I am a senior lecturer in university (Candidate of Economics) and a PR manager, but photography is the best part of my life.

 P.S. I'm sorry for my bad knowledge of English. I did my best to write without mistakes, but I don't think that I really haven't made them. 
 
Posted 6 months ago
Another great tutorial, thank you very much ! (:
 
Posted 6 months ago
Excellent tutorial, very fluent and explicit!!!

Thank you. I was expecting your participation in this section... for months..
 
Posted 6 months ago
Thank you Victoria,

I know for great potential of LED lightning but never try some shoots because of lacking idea.
You gave me some inspiration :)
I have some LED lights with flexible chassis and magnetic bottom for easy positioning. I'll have to use it definitely.

Thank you again .... and wish you more great pictures as they are always.
 
Posted 6 months ago
Great tutorial! Thanks for sharing - gives a lot of inspiration.
 
Posted 6 months ago
Cleverly done! Hope you have more ideas.
 
Posted 6 months ago
Thank you. This is one of the most inspiring tutorial I read at 1x.
 
Posted 6 months ago
Thanks a lot for the great tutorial my friend.
 
Posted 6 months ago
Nice tutorial, concise and informative - being a lecturer sure helps! And your English is quite good. Spasibo, Victoria! :)
 
Anvo 
Posted 6 months ago
Great tutorial. I have been wondering about the light in your pictures and now I know how you do it :-) You create stunning pictures. Thank you for sharing.
 
Posted 6 months ago
A well explained and interesting tutorial, thanks.
 
Hani 
Posted 6 months ago
OK Victoria,

That's the list that I like:
The:
context, 
work
idea
photo,
tutorial, 

You are just great!!!

1)Still not clear to me what do you mean by light brush.
2) If I understand correctly the objects were placed on a table and the photo taken from above ? because to me it seems that it is "standing" on a wall.

Rgds and hope to learn more from you.
Hani
 
Posted 6 months ago
Dear Hani!

1. A light brush is something (like a flashlighter) which helps to make light for your photo. It is difficelt for me to explain in better because of my bad English, but here you can see some videos. These videos are in russian, but you can just watch and you will see the "classic" way of using a light brush.


(It is light graphic or light painting).

2. The objects were on the table. THe table was covered with wall-paper.I was not above it, but in front. The effect of "standing on the wall"  is here because of the light.

Thank you very much!

 
 
 
Compose a reply
You must sign in if you want to post a reply.
Fine Art Prints  -  Our books  -  Work with us  -  FAQ  -  About 1X
© 1X Innovations AB 2007-2011. All rights reserved.
 
 Stumble 1X