I wanted this to be a question but forgot the '?' sorry. . .

Hi,
this is something that may turn out to be useful for others as well as me, so I thought the forum could stand a blatant pea for guidance from the 1X masters, published or otherwise.
I am about to tentatively start using film again. ( MF and 35mm ) It has been a very long time since I used film in any context other than holiday photos and the like.
I wonder if there are any pitfalls to look out for, or tips you could give.
For instance, with digital, we are encouraged to expose to get as much light detail without blowing the highlights, to do with technical stuff concerning the way a digital sensor works. For film it could be that this would not be a good idea, perhaps losing shadow detail is our main worry. . .
Is film more forgiving than digital?
thanks,
Jon

Depends of wich film you will use, but C-41 color negative and BW films have large latitude, much larger than digital sensors.

I don´t know "general" tips to give you on use of film, start to use it and you will learn the best way. Next times with your experiences if you need more specific advises, you know i´m here and help you ;)

Hi Jon,

First start of by deciding what you want to photograph, then find the most suitable film types for the job and test them to see which you like best in terms of grain, sharpness, contrast, colour, etc. Digital photography is much like shooting on reversal film (also called slide film). At least, that's what I've read. I've only shot a few rolls of Kodak's E100VS paid attention to the meter and overexposed 1/2 a stop when I thought it was necessary and the pictures were fine.

As Rui mentions negative film is way more lenient than reversal film or a digital sensor. However in my experience professional film is (apart from about 3 or 4 times as expensive) way more lenient when shooting in low light than consumer grade film, but somehow everything I've heard and read says that you have to be more accurate with professional film.

If you're going to shoot people, either avoid Velvia, Pro 160C, Portra 160VC and E100VS or bring a big jar of foundation. Those films have enhanced contrast and vivid saturation, causing them to make people look really really red. Not very nice, unless you're cross processing Pro 160C, that turns into something I like very much. But that might entirely be my defect ;).

I've asked myself the same question about shadow detail and film. Since negative film has a much wider dynamic range than digital sensors you'll get more detail in shadows either way. I also know (from stupid photography shop employees) that a completely overexposed image on negative can still turn into a well lit picture when developed. I was going for a high key shot and the print ended up about 1 stop below midgrey or so.

On a wild sea without a boat or a brain. We seem to be going in the same direction here Jon, thanks for kicking things off.

You're welcome Alex ;-)

Thanks Joost and Rui, I'm going to try it and see what happens obviously, thanks for the input on the latitude of film emulsion etc.
My initial intention is to buy some cheap film ( colour and B&W for the medium format, and just B&W for the 35mm ) and see what the results look like before refining my options ;-)
Jon

Jon,
take into account that if you choose film, you're basically choosing a different way to live photography, that I would define more zen-like. You will learn a lot more from your errors, trust your eye, get more patient and enjoy the time you're taking pictures rather than the one when you're post-producing them.
I now own a Pentax K20D (digital) and a Leica M2 (analog). Well, believe me, I didn't touch my Pentax anymore since I got my Leica 1 month ago. My Pentax now looks like a toy to my eyes and my Leica like an instrument, yet the fun is more than doubled :)

Cheers Fabio, I thinking that for static subjects I might use the digital as a sort of sketchpad before deciding what to commit to film. I just need some time and some half decent light ;-)
Jon

I just got a cheap Nikon body from ebay to 'co host' my nikon lenses so I'm pleased ;-) and a dinky little rangefinder from the seventies for street 35mm work, probably. . .

What Nikon body did you buy? I have a F100, a F80 and a little FG that I just love.

Hi Clyde, I would have loved to get an F100 but they are pretty pricey secondhand, ( about £100 ) so I consulted the nikonians site and narrowed down about 3 other possible bodies that would work ok with both AIS and AF lenses. The F70 seemed a good bet. I got one for £8.00 in the end! Maybe not up to f100 standards but for the money I'm well pleased. Shoot a film and get it developed and you've spent £8.00! It will work, or rather, should work, I don't have it yet, with my 24.2.8 AIS and my 50 1.4 AFD. And, if i am careful, with any other lenses I acquire for it and my D90 in future.
cheers,
Jon
I got a Vivitar ES35 rangefinder as well. Supposed to have a really good lens for low light and street stuff. A 40mm 1.7. So, as you see i am covering all my options ;-) Now all I have to do is take some good pics ;-)

Well the F70 turned up. And a nasty plasticy thing it is too. . . I shall reserve judgement until I have run a film through it though I guess. maybe I should start saving for that F100. . .
Jon

The F80 is much less than the F100 but still a very nice camera. Just check lens compatibility. The F100 will meter with some lenses that the F80 won't, i.e. my shiny new Lensbaby.

What? ;) Congrats Clyde and have a lot of fun! Cheers!

Will take some learning I suppose:

http://www.clydebeamer.com/2010/02/the-old-and-the-new/
http://www.clydebeamer.com/2009/12/walkin-burbank-16/

The second one I like much!

Well, like everything for sure it has a learning curve but it's full of fun, at times yes it could be a bit frustrating too but I have to say that at least for me it had opened new ways of looking at the world! Good luck Clyde!

All the best!
Codrin

ps: this is a good start for sure and you can use with trust the lensbaby forum for any question or for sharing and inspiration...

Jon, sorry for the offtopic!

You don't need an F100. I use a Nikkormat which is fine for me, but if I had no camera I'd aim for an FM2a or FE2 or similar.

Personally I want to move away from film because I'm struggling to find a good outlet that won't fuck up the developing of c41 film. ffs. Ever since I've moved town, it's so hard to keep it up because of availability. I've had a batch of rolls that were totally ruined this weekend. So until I can sort out my own developing, and find better film, I'm kind of put off. Too much effort going in, and then I leave it to other people to screw it up. Makes no sense.

I know this won't help most of you "Europeans" but I process my c41 at the local 1 hour at the CVS pharmacy. I drop the film off as I drive back to my house, it's right down the street. I go home empty the car, go to the bathroom and then go back 20-30 minuted later, pay $2.40 per roll and am back home scanning in 5 minutes. So far, they have done a perfectly fine job. Consistent colors and tones, virtually no scratches. The negs come in strips of 4 in cheap sleeves. I scan them and then store them in proper sleeves. The only thing I wish is that they could/would cut in strips of 6 instead or 4, but that's minor.

See there are some advantages in being a "Yank"!!

This shot form Sunday is "right out of the scanner" only cropped out the borders:

http://www.clydebeamer.com/2010/02/one-tough-tree/

Clyde - just curious - but what's with the falloff in the top two corners. Is that from the scan?

I noticed that too, must be the big honkin' sun screen that lens comes with. It's the 70-300mm VR. Sorta surprised to see it at long telephoto. I also have a UV filter on there. I've never seen it on the D90, but this was film with a F100.

Number 2 lensbaby shot for me too Clyde. I'm must try mine out again soon.

Sorry to hear about your film troubles Zaheer. Maybe home developing is the answer. I might go the whole hog and try home developing. It does look to be a lot cheaper. it's the bit about dryng the film in a dust free environment that worries me. . . That cuts out a lot of my house, and probably me as well ;-)

I shall check the F80 compatibility. . The F70 does allow me to meter with the 24 2.8 though.

best,
jon

Yes, that one is way better, still learning. I am starting to realize that what subject you choose for lensbaby is also very important.

I think I'm pretty jealous of you Zaahir. I've been looking for a good Nikkormat or FM2 body but haven't been able to find one for an acceptable price ;). Guess I'll just have to make due with the practica I have now, but it's a little impractical because the rest of my lensen are all nikon.

No, auto exposure and auto focus by scanner. I scan in strips of 4 or 6 in batch mode. If I have something that I really like and think I can do better, I will go back to it and preview in the scanning software and do adjustments there. I scan to raw file, so I did a convert from raw in camera raw, but I tend to do a fairly neutral conversion and then push things in PS if I want. This one was probably opened with camera raw's auto button too.

FM2 are little overpriced IMO. They are very good camera of course, but the less legendary FM is much cheaper, has the same ergonomic, can work without battery as well and finally offers almost the same functionality (main difference being shutter speed only down to 1/1000 and a more rudimentary flash synchro - which is not really what you are after I guess).

From a quick scan I conclude that, locally, FM are a little overpriced as well. Damn, I bought my current Hassie body for 50-100 euro more. Maybe I'm too accustomed to getting good deals. Or maybe Dutch people really are cheap and demand a higher price than stuff is worth when they sell it ;).